Tuesday, December 13, 2011

Oh Nigeria, I Think I'm in Love...

In loving memory of Grandpa and Grandma Adewusi... 

Grandpa, Grandma, and the grandchildren
(That's me, back row, in the blue dress and jheri curl)

Oil. Power. Population. Corruption. Do a Google search and you'll probably find these terms used synonymously with the country of - I'm sure you guessed it - Nigeria. 

Beauty. Culture. Community. Promise.  After my recent visit (the reason for my extended silence), I really believe that these words describe this nation.

After a challenging start to my time in Malawi, I was excited about making this trip to Nigeria. I was sad that the occasion was my grandmother's funeral (or "the celebration of her life," as the event was viewed), but I was happy that for the first time in more than 3 months, I would be with family. In true Diva-style, I began my trip with a 15-hour layover in Nairobi (code for: 2.5 hour bus ride to city center, 1 hour visit with a friend, 3 hour dinner with another friend and her adorable toddler, 3 hour visit to boogie down at a local joint, more time than is worth counting on public transport, and, oh yes, a 2 hour nap at the airport).

Adorable. So worth the 15-hour layover.
My friend and I in Nairobi.
Reminiscing, as I visit the apartment I stayed in last summer.

After a short stay in Lagos - Nigeria's former capital, and upon my parents arrival, we traveled to Ibadan - another south-west city known for its massive size (one of the largest cities in Africa) and "town-like" feel. I spent quality time with an entertaining cousin and enjoyed some of my favorite things: shopping for fabric and designing new clothes (though bartering at the market is an art I've yet to cultivate), suya - delectable meat slices covered in chilli and other spices roasted right in front of you, and, of course, all the fried plantain I could eat!

Traffic in Ibadan. (This is a good day...)
Stands off the side of the road where we bought fresh fruit.
Development at its finest.
Ankara! Time to design some new clothes.
Preparing the suya.

A few days later, we made the trip to Ede, a town in Osun State and former home to both my grandparents and my mother. We spent most of our time preparing for the event, but had a little time for family fun too! 

The road leading into Ede.
Possibly the best fruit ever. 
Ede town.
Organizing the personalized souvenir flashlights that were
given to guests at the reception. 
Bush meat. (aka: "birthday meat" for me, two years in a row).
Enjoying a glass of palm wine with my mama!

The trip was bittersweet. My grandmother's funeral was beautiful, and a perfect representation of what she would want her last party to look like. The 2-day event started with the transport of her body from Ibadan, followed by a procession from the outskirts of Ede to the house. A hired group of performers carried the coffin, dancing to the tunes of a small band, while we followed behind in parade-like fashion. As a siren blared in front of us, alerting the town of the event, community members offered their condolences. 

Preparing for the event at the house. A cow is being cooked (left)
while the yard is being cleaned.
Preparing the front of the house for the wake. 
The performers sing and dance, followed by the body and family. 

Upon arriving at my grandparent's property, I was greeted by an exciting aroma and most welcome distraction - the smell of fried dough, puffpuff  and buns, possibly my favorite snacks on the face of the planet. My mom and aunt arranged for the special preparation of these yummy snacks in mass numbers in honor of my birthday, which coincided with the first day of the celebration of the life of Grandma. 

Mixing the dough...
Frying the dough...
Me following the chef, ready to eat the dough...

Yum! A hundred buns just for me!
After eating far too many donuts and an outfit change, it was time for the wake, held at the home. It was the last viewing of my grandmother, a true woman of faith often remembered (and misrepresented) for her theatrical nature and beautiful voice. What a lot of people don't realize is that my grandmother was an exceptional woman, well-known in her earlier years for her work in nursing and midwifery, and that she took a lot of hits for those around her. 

My dear Grandma.
May her soul rest in peace.
The next day hosted a two-hour church funeral service, followed by a three-hour reception of music, dancing, and traditional Yoruba food for hundreds of family members and guests. The local king, who belongs to one of three families including my own eligible for the crown, attended the event as well, dancing and "spraying" (tossing money over someone who's dancing) my family. I had a lot of fun attempting to shake my hips, Naija-style.

The dancers dance with the coffin on the way to the church.
The grandchildren now after an afternoon of dancing.
We've come a long way...
The afterparty.

The last few days of my trip involved another trip to Ibadan, where I enjoyed more suya and saw the University of Ibadan Medical School, one of the best on the African continent.

Ibadan Medical School. 
Suya stand: where good things come from!
Quadruple yum!!!!!

My stay ended in Lagos, where one cousin took me to Victoria Island for a day of fun. I watched a newly-released film (something I can't do in Lilongwe, since there's no movie theatre^), road an okada (motor bike), and was so surprised to see development on the island: required helmets for the okada passengers, people actually waiting in line at proper bus stops...These things may seem trivial, but anyone who's traveled to the African continent can attest that they are positive signs.

The Galleria. Am I still in Nigeria?
The okada drivers and passengers are wearing helmets!
(For some reason, they didn't give me one when I rode...)
My cuz and me on the bus back to mainland.
Notice: people are waiting patiently in line to board the bus.

Though I was sad to leave, I ended my trip in true Diva fashion, amusing myself during a missed connection in Nairobi. 

Me at a hotel in Nairobi, compliments of Kenya Air.
Well, I tried...
I think I improved by the end of the night.

And so I returned to Malawi, missing the vibrancy of Nigerian life and confident that I want to test it out for a year or so, should the opportunity arise. Of course it was only fitting that in my first week back in Malawi, I would meet a Nigerian at the vegetable market who would invite me to a soiree with at least 200 Nigerians present (who knew Malawi had so many??). 

Don't be tardy for the

I really miss my beautiful grandmother and her voice, my insightful grandfather (whose "life celebration" was exactly 1-year earlier) and his stories, and being back in Nigeria makes me feel connected to them. I loved interacting with almost all of my family for the first time in ages and seeing that we can all relate to one another despite differences in age, upbringing, and geographic location. I loved experiencing the richness of Yoruba culture - the Ankara fabrics and bold fashions, the music and dancing whether at church or hanging out in the kitchen, the religious conviction whether through the five-times-a-day Islamic prayers blaring over megaphones or nightly family prayer sessions, preceded by the phrase "Oluwaseun" ("We thank God") at least 20 times in a day. I loved talking and listening to intelligent conversations on Nigeria - on politics, challenges, and the way forward. I loved looking at the success that some people have been able to achieve through hard work and opportunity, in spite of other challenges: my uncle's architecture business and my adopted grandfather's international school (soon to be expanding to the university level). In spite of its blemishes, I really love Nigeria. 

^I stand corrected. There is, in fact, a movie theatre in Blantyre, Malawi that is operational as of June 2012. It's actually nicer than the theatre in my hometown...


  1. I am so glad you were able to see your family and spend time in Nigeria. I completely understand your feelings and emotions since they are very similar to what I am experiencing now. Very happy for you!!! :)

  2. Yvette, I'm sorry to hear about your loss. Thanks for sharing this experience. I'm glad that you were able to see your family and spend time in Nigeria -- and remember all the great things about it. You look great in all the pictures too and I love the dresses :)
    Miss you.

  3. All i see is SUYA!!!!!!! Lol

  4. Yvette, you brought back memories of my glorious medical school days in Ibadan


  5. Angela, Lama, thank you so much for your kind words.

    Maimunat, that suya was worth the trip alone!

    John, glad to rekindle the memories. Hope you are well!